#6 Pursuit of Happiness ends here :: Bhutan Memoirs
I was in Bhutan last week on an 8 day holiday and I have come back with much more than memories and pictures. It is one of the most…
I was in Bhutan last week on an 8 day holiday and I have come back with much more than memories and pictures. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to.It’s pristine , unspoilt and truly otherworldly. We touched mountain tops, tasted rarefied air of paradise — of bright sunlight and breathtaking views.
The landscape throughout the country is beautiful, but what truly struck me hard , were the people of this country. Being kind is practically a law here. Life is simple. They laugh and enjoy life and it is contagious.They consciously stay calm , aware in the present and in my time over there, I did NOT see a single Bhutanese getting angry, though there were plenty of opportunities to do so (which I will talk about later). We had a Bhutanese guide and a driver with us all the days of the trip and through numerous discussions with them, I kept getting more interested in Life in Bhutan.
People were truly happy in the country that measures Gross National Happiness over Gross Domestic Product. When I say “happy”, I mean of it as being in a state wherein we are without want. Happiness is linked to kindness, compassion, having what you need and being comfortable with yourself. What is it that makes Bhutan one of the Happiest places in the world, though the country is underdeveloped?
Here is my take on it -
People have embraced the core principles of Buddhism -
People are highly self aware of their emotions, thoughts. They check -in with themselves every few times a day. Am I tense, angry, relaxed,calm? And they try to reverse the negative states as soon as they can. They are calm during the little disasters we have everyday , and then they are easily able to handle the really big things when they come along.
I saw multiple examples of this during the trip.
One time we had gone sightseeing to the Golden Buddha, Thimpu. While we were gone , someone parked their car right ahead of ours, and when we came back there was no way our car could move out. We waited for about 35 minutes before the other car driver came. I was expecting some drama to follow — but guess what — both the drivers smiled at each other — said something in local Bhutanese and carried on with life. Can you imagine the scene that would be created had this happened in Delhi or Mumbai? When I asked our driver about his reaction later “He said , it was a conscious choice — to NOT get angry. It was too small of a thing in the big picture”.
Our guide Tshering
Another time , we were on a trek to the tiger’s nest — a monastery built up in the sky, at 10,200 ft. My 8 year old son decided to embark on this tough trek as well — we weren’t sure if he would be able to make it all the way to the top, so we did not purchase a ticket to the monastery while starting the journey at the base camp. But he surprised us, the beauty of the place was mesmerizing and he was raring to go all the way — so mid way we stopped to ask a local guide if we would be able to purchase the tickets at the monastery. He said , “It looks doubtful — but nevertheless don’t be disappointed if you don’t get the tickets , buddha is everywhere, just reach the top — close your eyes and say your prayers”. We were amazed of how ingrained spirituality is in every single person here!
After an arduous , but extremely rewarding 3.5 hr hike , we did reach the top and did manage tickets. We were assigned a local guide to show us 4 temples within the monastery. The first thing he asked us to do, once we were in the first temple was to close our eyes and meditate for 5 mins in complete silence. This moved me deeply! It was a stark contrast to all my other encounters at the numerous religious spots I have visited — Siddhivinayak, Sankheshwar, Palitana, Gangotri — where the pandits are in this urgency of you hurrying up — else you are at the risk of losing a limb! He then went on to explain that rather than gold, money — their offerings are rather simple. They offer to God what they have in abundance, and that’s water and rice.There is no show of material wealth , power and splendor. Focus is not on rituals but on spirituality — on what you are feeling within!
The Bhutanese say we should think about death at least 5 times a day. That way, all your reactions to it — fear, dread, terror, anxiety eventually dissolve and then all you can do is laugh!
The Bhutanese have got to a simpler level of existence, they live with grace and have adapted themselves to the environment. School kids mostly don’t have buses — they walk to and fro 5 kms laughing and playing along the way.They have learnt to flow , just like their beautiful rivers all across the country.
They are fortunate to have been led by rulers with a heart of gold
Though a peace loving country, their previous King Jigme Singye Wangchuk personally led his troops into battle in the first military conflict fought by the small nation. Stop a moment and think of a world leader you know — who would actually , personally lead an army into a battle!
His son, the current King Jigme Kesar Wangchuk (youngest King in history, at age 30) introduced democracy in the country — when people did not demand it, did not need it and certainly did not fight for it. He traveled extensively to explain and discuss the Draft Constitution with the people, and to encourage participation in the upcoming democratic exercises.Going ever further, he added a clause to the constitution giving its people rights to impeach the King!
He can be seen cycling around Thimpu and Paro and lives in a modest home that locals still call a Palace.
The current Prime Minister Dr Lotay Tshering (seen in Modi’s swearing in ceremony) is a practising doctor , and even today performs surgeries over weekends!
They are carbon negative
Bhutan’s constitution demands that at all times a minimum of 60% of the country’s total land area remains under forest cover.Currently 72% of Bhutan is under forest cover. The country has become a carbon sink. Being a carbon sink means that Bhutan absorbs over six million tons of carbon annually while only producing around 1.5 million tons.
They have preserved the pristine beauty of the landscape they were gifted with and that has blessed them with a lovely weather and clean air all through the year.
Gross National Happiness GNH is more important to them than GDP
They prioritise happiness of people before economic growth. Unlike most countries that use the Gross Domestic Product Index to measure development, Bhutan uses the Gross National Happiness Index, a measure of development with values. Whatever is proposed by the government must be economically sound, it must help to preserve the environment, promote culture or improve governance. Often the government will forgo economic gains if they lower the quality of life in other ways. Although it is one of the least developed countries of the world, it is the only country in the world that provides free education and free healthcare.
This trip has had an impact that I had never imagined. Simulating the Bhutanese in little ways is something I look forward to doing for the rest of my life. And the day I fail to do so, maybe it is time to go back and breathe in that fresh Himalayan air, once again!